Sydney Collier & Calvin Gassmann
Challenge One
In the Victorian era there was a Gothic Revival. The art corresponding to this movement were the Pre-Raphaelites among them were: Dante Gabriel Rossetti, Sirs Edward Coley Burn-Jones and John Everett Millas, who often depicted the Middle Ages as does gothic literature. Both have a highly romantic, mysterious and often macabre atmosphere. The Gothic influence was also prominent in architecture, furniture and interiors William Morris being the most famous in this artistic area.
Mourning clothes were black and lilac, and mourning jewelry was made of the deceased hair. In general the fashion could be considered ‘more is more”.
Toward the end of this era Bram Stoker wrote “Dracula”.
Goth as we know it began with punk rock and has been associated with rockers ever since, Joan Jett, The Sex Pistols, The Cure, Nosferatu, and Marylin Manson and the current evolution Lady Gaga.
The cult of the vampire has been revived by Anne Rice in her brilliant books that make up the Vampire Chronicles. Now Stephanie Meyer has set off a frenzy with the Twilight series of books and movies.
In Eclipse the third in the series, we hear Rosalie’s story. Rosalie hates being a vampire, she was turned by Carlisle Cullen her adoptive vampire father in 1933. Carlisle smelled her blood then found her dying in the street. Carlisle saved Rosalie by making her a vampire, but she’s bitter because she had had no choice in her fate.
The most beautiful girl of the town, Rosalie was set to marry Royce King the richest, most eligible bachelor the following day. The night before her wedding day Rosalie was attacked, violated and beaten by a group of carousing men led by her fiance Royce King then discarded to die. One of his cohorts comments that he can always find a new wife.
Now a vampire, on the day of her bygone nuptials, she dons her wedding gown and seeks out all of the men who attacked her and left her for dead. One by one she kills them saving Royce for last, whom she tortures to death.
In the film Rosalie’s wedding gown is white, but we chose to dress her as a avenging Gothic vampire wearing a mix of modern rocker and high Victoriana.
In the two artistic photographs we see Rosalie looking at her fangs in the mirror in her wedding finery preparing herself for the hunt. Rosalie has recovered, accepts her new life and is ready to rock. In the second photo she has killed seven men including the guards Royce hired to protect him. Rosalie runs tearing her clothes. She is overcome by the violence she is now capable of and collapses against a tomb.
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Challenge Two
Cruella has started her own line of furs. She’s gotten Botox, a face lift and who knows what else, in order to meet the image of a hot fur designer. Her fur scarf has the collections new logo printed on the lining. Appropriately she drives the classic bright red 1959 Cadillac Coupe DeVille. It matches her signature colors black, white and red as well as, well, her name of course ! Today she wears red silk pants, a black and white leather halter and shoes, and a black hand knit sweater with a red belt. On her head she wears a black leather beret with biot feathers.
But she still has dreams of puppies, spotted puppies.
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Challenge Three
This designʼs inspiration has many references, the more sweeping reference is ethnic
Asians. The subsets are Mongol, Uzbek, Afghani, Himalayan and Ottoman. It comes
from the design imprint of historic native costume in the Asian sensibility and the 20th
century cubist deconstruction of realism: Examples are the Russian theater costume
designers Goncharova, Larinov and Tatlin. Leon Bakst, although not a cubist, was
another costume designer whose asian costumes are quite inspirational. Most of them
designed for the Ballet Russes at one time or another. They also have wonderful color
and pattern combinations.
Current design influences are, Peachoo & Krejberg, Thimister, A. F Vadevorst, Gary
Graham, Haider Akerman as well as Comme Des Garcons,Galliano, McQween, YSL
and Kenzo.
This design is a mixture of pattern and texture. The scale of the doll dictates some
adjustments and substitutions for what might be used on the runway. In scale: 1:12 - it is
important to use fabrics, prints and drape heft that look real within the given scale. To
that end, the muted ombre of the yarn in the sweater and Goncharovaʼs painting “Linen”
and Gary Graham Spring 2010, inspired the color palette and for the ʻskirtʼ two patterns
were printed and color adjusted, one an Uzbek influenced Ikat the other a paisley taken
from a 17th century Damascus tile (which I scanned).The sweater is knitted with nubby
mixed hues of blue green. I chose cheese cloth because of itʼs drape, texture and
malleable quality for scale. The cheese cloth was dyed ombre blues and the paisley and
check were tea over-dyed. All the suede was taken from a vintage glove. The belt adds
a toughness and a raw edge and was chosen from brown lambskin. The bronze dupioni
silk is intended to break up the monochrome shades of the blues as well as adding a
luxe texture. A painted and beaded snake applied to the belt is intended to add luxurious
decorative, textural, sexual and symbolic energy. The open sweater revealing a bra also
adds surprise and a sexual element. Throughout ties and slips were used as closures,
native clothing would generally not have buttons except frog variations. The sued sleeve
with the gauntlet tied to her wrist creates the fantasy of a falconer, which has itʼs roots in
Mongolian eagle hunting. Throughout, the juxtaposition of yin and yang is meant to
convey a warrior glamazon statement.
Challenge Four
In this challenge I chose a Western theme. The accoutrements of this theme are unique to this element of design. Western seems to recur in cycles always with new elements and also with the traditional elements. In this challenge leather and silver bring a biker element to the girlish plaid mini and a pop art print of iconic Hollywood cowboys, Paul Newman, Steve McQueen and Clint Eastwood. Silver and turquiose Native American jewelry, Chaps, Western embellished boots and a fringed knit ‘frock’ coat add to the mix. Influences currently are Givenchy and Hermés. Ralph Lauren is the American high fashion standard for this look and in the past Claude Montana and Isaac Mizrahi have created glamorous cowgirls. Nudie and Manuel as well as they are the couturiers to Nashville and other stars. As examples, Nudie for Elvis and Manuel for Linda Ronstadt on her “Canciones de mi Padre” album and tour.
Challenge Five
This Steampunk outfit is made from lambskin suede for the cadet vest and arm
bands, silk dupioni, solid and striped for the skirt and lambskin leather for the
corset/belt, collar, holster, eye monocle, and trim on the bag. The breast plate is
Fimo with gold leafing. The ray gun is Legos and Fimo, the monocle is jewelry
findings, watch parts and found objects.
Challenge Six